I don’t have a spiritual bone in my body, at least not in
the conventional sense. The pleasure of hard-nosed science smacks me with
something called “reality”. But this doesn’t dull my sense of awe and wonder at
natural beauty such as Smith Rock. I
felt as though drawn to this wonderful place…an unexpressed destiny…somehow
maintaining its pristine appearance through the millennia. My newfound friends
– the reason for my visit – exhorted me to “Go to Smith Rock”, and I did, and
they were right. Truly spectacular.
A local runner was gearing up when I arrived. We discussed
route options and I picked his brain. I wanted a decent amount of mileage, a
lot of climbing and a full tour of the park – the route was obvious. He was
heading the same initial direction but to a different location. It was warm and
due to become very warm
I passed the local runner shortly after the initial descent
alongside the Crooked River. I wasn’t going particularly fast and he was
about 20 years younger. That competitive spirit never dulls.
After 1.25 miles the serious climbing started – a
consistently steep trail for 1.5 miles with no shade in full sun. It was brutal
but I pressed on. The single ascending switchback enabled me to gain height
quickly and as I turned to complete the last section to the crest of the trail
I could see the local runner a long way below. At the top of the crest I had
taken almost 12 minutes out of him in a single mile.
The choice at the top seemed obvious – the main trail I
would eventually take along the valley rim was ahead, but an outrageously
steep, loose trail took on the mountain summit to my right. It had to be done.
It was lung-busting and insecure. Each step had tentative traction and often I
would stride up and find myself back in my starting position – so much loose
rock it was like climbing on marbles.
It was thankfully short, but the effort was excessive and I
was blowing hard as the angle eased. I was able to jog and then run as the
final summit block approached. The view was incredible – 1500’ of vertical
ascent in 1.5 miles. It’s been a long winter and I haven’t enjoyed myself so
much for a long time. I just can’t wait for the high altitude mountains to thaw
out!!
The descent was a wicked combination of foot sliding and
braking in an attempt to not completely lose control, but it was a short affair
and soon I was pounding along to valley rim trail skirting beautiful magma
pinnacles and rock faces. I stopped many times for photographs and although
this slowed me up a lot, I could not resist.
Outside of Colorado, and my home trip around the Wasdale
peaks in Cumbria, UK, this is, without doubt, my favorite running place. It
also edges out the ascent of Table Mountain from Hellenbosch near Cape Town,
South Africa, which has long held a special place in my memory. It’s that good.
Beautiful descent below the Monkey Face pinnacle |
The final section of the descent to the base of Monkey Face
is beautiful – verdant green pastures, crystal blue river, and golden magma
towers. It is captivating and makes the running exhilarating. The volcanic push
that formed this environment 10’s of
millions of years ago achieved the appearance of design – indeed, there are
nutcases out there who believe the whole deal was the result of a global flood
6000 years ago, but they are the ones watching the Flintstones thinking it is a
documentary. No time for such nonsense today. I took the harder detour to the
true base of the Monkey Face and chatted briefly with some climbers who were
launching up the popular 5.8 route. I wish I could have joined them!!
They were the first people I had met all day, but I soon
started picking up hikers as I rounded the final turn next to the river and
headed north back towards the start. I could hear the echoing voices of
climbers at different places but couldn’t pick them out through the glare of
the sun. Arriving back at the bridge I had the final ascent back to the car and
this involved picking my way through bunches of hikers descending to the
valley.
I felt tired yet fulfilled. I pondered the many different
running options in this magnificent park and vowed to return for
more…particularly for the climbing. I didn’t waste my time and had checked out
every rock face approach and descent as I ran and I had a mental image to
return to for future visits.
Arriving back at the car with the temperature hitting 80
degrees, a hiker wearing a full pack, heavy twill trousers and a waterproof
jacket asked me what conditions were like at the bottom of the valley. I
briefly considered whether he was serious before quickly realizing that he was.
I imperiously glanced in the direction of the valley from which I came,
shirtless and sweating and, with due sincerity, said “Button up, it’s wild and
windy down there.” There’s one born every minute – Forrest Gump minus the
intellect.